Sweetbitter

Sweet

We decide to leave early for zero point. The hotel staff tell us that the checkpoint will only open at 630. We decide to leave at 530 from the hotel. Rather than waiting in a traffic jam behind 100 vehicles, we would prefer waiting for the checkpoint to open as the first vehicle.

Zero point — this will be the first (and probably only) place to we will successfully be able to visit in this trip. We want to make the most of it. 

We start as planned at 6 am. We’re among the first vehicles at the checkpoint. It’s already bright at 6 am. After about 30 mins, we reach Yumthang Valley. 

Ohhhhhh muoyyyyy gawddddd. 

It snowed last night, and since the sun isn’t fully up yet, the snow is resting beautifully on the trees. Oreo biscuits and cookie cream everywhere.. 

On the way, we rent gumboots and warm waterproof clothing so we can play freely in the snow. After crossing the tree line, the route to Zero Point is amazing. Winding roads, snow scattered here and there, breathtaking views of the valley, and mountains all around. Finally we arrive. Zero point. 

Technically, roads lead further from zero point for about 3km. However that is road is only accessible to the army so that they can meet their Chinese friends. Not for civilians. 

There’s fresh snow. Those who’ve never seen snow or fresh snow before go nuts, behaving like kids in a toy shop—rolling, lying, running around, making snowballs, throwing them at each other. Now the sun is fully up, and everyone wants a million photos in a million poses. Thanks to no-cost beautiful photos on smartphones and Instagram for pose ideas.. But why will someone not want the pictures. The environment is so amazing that even if you put 10% effort, the photo will come out good. 

After lots of playtime and tons of photos, we head back to Lachung. On the way, we have freshly made momos—absolutely amazing, the best I’ve had on this trip.

The same Yumthang valley which was looking like crumbled Oreo biscuits now looks dull and normal as all the snow has melted. It is just another mountain road no. It’s very strange how a small amount of snow sprinkled on top of the trees can make such a difference to the way they look. 

We pick up some Zumzin wine, arguably the best thing (and the only good thing) made in Bhutan. I had tasted it more than 6yrs ago. But the taste still lingers in my head. Finding it here in Sikkim is pure joy. 

Bitter

After all the happiness, the dreadful travel starts. We leave for Gangtok. Our trip in north Sikkim has officially ended. We leave Lachung at 2:30pm.

The return journey is horrible. Bad roads and bad traffic jams. Zumzin helps a bit, but we’re dead tired and can’t even catch a little sleep as the vehicle keeps jumping around like a bull. I think a horse ride would be less bumpy. My waist and hips have disowned me—I can barely feel them. My legs are just there, hanging somewhere nearby.

We watch about 1.5 movies on the way back. Actually, we mostly hear the movies, because watching anything properly on this jumpy ride is impossible. I genuinely think traveling in cabs between Gangtok and North Sikkim should be considered a form of punishment that courts could use.

After 11 hours of extremely uncomfortable travel, we reach Gangtok at 1am. Thankfully a good room and comfortable bed awaits us. 

Next morning, all I remember is entering the room. I was so exhausted and sleepy that I headed straight to bed and immediately passed out.

Photo video credits – insta/chirag_0_0_